Worn wheel bearings manifest themselves as a howling noise that increases with speed. Think "tire noise" cranked up to 11. If your Jeep's wheel bearings are howling, they are telling you it's time to replace these tired, old wheel bearings.
This article applies to the Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ and WJ (1993-2004).
Wheel hub bearings are exactly what they sound like, bearings seated in the hub (where the wheel mounts up) that helps the hub spin freely without friction. As these bearings are moving parts, you can expect them to require infrequent, but periodic, replacement.
Failed wheel bearings are something you always want to replace as soon as possible. Otherwise, you run the risk of them building up too much friction and welding themselves together, which can cause a wheel to completely shear off the hub. On the Grand Cherokees, the bearing is integrated into the hub assembly, which is good news for those who have ever had to repack a wheel bearing. However, it also makes for a costlier part and means you need to remove more parts.
Materials Needed
- New hub and bearing assembly
- One new axle cotter pin per hub being replaced
- Floor jack
- Jack stands
- Tire iron
- 3/4" socket
- 11/16" socket
- 1-7/16" socket
- Cheater bar
- Hammer or small sledge hammer
- Small pry bar
- C-clamp
- 13mm 12-point socket
Step 1 – Remove the wheel
- Park on flat, level ground.
- Set the parking brake.
- Using the tire iron, loosen the lug nuts on the wheel.
- Raise the vehicle using your floor jack until you can position the jack stand underneath.
- Remove the lug nuts and the wheel.
- Lower the vehicle onto the jack stand.
Step 2 – Remove the hub assembly
You'll need a helper for this next step to allow you to remove the center hub nut.
- Remove the cotter pin on the center hub nut. You can try to pull it out, but normally it's just easier to break the pin off.
- Have your helper hold the brake pedal down.
- While the brake pedal is being held, use your 1-7/16" socket and a cheater bar to loosen the nut. You'll only need it loose enough where you won't need to hold the breaks to fully remove it later (see Figure 2).
- Using an 11/16" socket, remove the two bolts that hold on the brake caliper. One is located at the top and the other at the bottom on the backside of the caliper (see Figure 3).
- With the bolts out, you can pull the caliper off. You may need to use your pry bar to get them to come off. Once they're off, set them aside onto part of the suspension so that the brake line doesn't get damaged. We repeat: give the brake line some slack; if put under tension, it will tear and your day will get much worse.
- Using your pry bar, pop out the brake pads.
- Using a 3/4" socket, remove the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket onto the hub assembly.
- Re-install 2-3 lug nuts loosely onto the hub.
- Using a hammer or a small 3-5 lb. sledge hammer, hit the rotor from the back side to break it free (see Figure 5).
Pro Tip
If your rotor won't come loose, check for a "service hole" in the rotor. It looks like a 6th hole where a wheel stud could be pushed through. If your rotor has one of these, find a bolt that threads into it (usually 5/8") and crank the bolt through. The bolt will push against the hub and free the rotor.
- You can remove the lug nuts and the rotor now.
- Using your hammer, hit the axle in the center of the hub to break it free. You don't need to crush it with a sledge, just enough to break it free of the built of rust holding it in place.
- Using your 13mm 12-point socket, remove the three bolts that hold the hub assembly on.
- Using your hammer or sledge, hit on the back of the hub on both sides to knock it free. It'll take a good amount of hits working your way in a circle around it to get it free.
- Once it's free, you can remove the hub.
Step 3 – Install new assembly
- Place the new hub assembly over the axle and push it back into place. Holding the axle from the rear helps it line up easier and keeps the axle from wandering while you're trying to do it.
- Re-install the three hub assembly bolts. If your bolts are severely rusted or have damaged threads, it is suggested replacing them with new ones. Make sure to tighten the bolts evenly. If you have a torque wrench, torque these to 85 ft-lbs (if you need reference, that's about as tight as a lug nut on a wheel).
- Re-install the center hub nut as tight as you can get it for the time being.
- Slip the rotor back onto the hub; you can tighten a lug nut or two onto it to hold it in place for now.
- Re-install the caliper mounting bracket using the two bolts. Torque to 65 ft-lbs.
- Slide the brake pads back into place.
- Re-install the caliper using the two bolts. Torque to 20 ft-lbs.
- Having your helper hold the brake pedal down, tighten the center hub nut to 170 ft-lbs.
- Remove the lug nut you placed on the rotor to hold it in place.
- Re-install the retaining ring and then place a new cotter pin in the hub nut.
- Re-install the wheel.
- Tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
- Raise the vehicle off of the jack stand, and then lower it back onto the ground.
Featured Videos: How to Replace Wheel Hub Bearing
Part 1
Part 2
Related Discussions
- Axle Bearing Assembly Bolts - CherokeeForum.com
- Front Wheel Hub Nut - CherokeeForum.com
- Hub Assembly - CherokeeForum.com
- Wheel Hub Assembly - CherokeeForum.com