CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR LOCATION??? Show Member Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: New York City Posts: 236 Likes: 0 Received 1 Like on 1 Post '14 E550 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR LOCATION??? Hey MB'ers. I recently found out that I have to replace my crankshaft position sensor due to my car throwing the P0335 code. I've searched and found out its a pretty easy procedure that I can do. Only prob is that I have no idea where it's located in our engine bays The following users liked this post: Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Seattle Posts: 676 Likes: 0 Received 1 Like on 1 Post W209, E46 M3 (dead), S54 swapped E46 Touring when i did mine it only took me 5 minutes to find a write up with pictures.
about 6 inches down Member Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: New York City Posts: 236 Likes: 0 Received 1 Like on 1 Post '14 E550 Quote: Originally Posted by sweet jones when i did mine it only took me 5 minutes to find a write up with pictures.
about 6 inches down Thanks Buddy Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Georgia, USA Posts: 38 Likes: 0 2008 GL320 CDI, 2007 E320, 2005 Passat TDI Hey Waz, When I replace mine a couple weeks ago I used a 1/4 inch socket (1/4 inch drive with approx 14" extension). The bolt is actually requires a T-8 (Torx 8) SOCKET which I'd never seen until I had removed the bolt. I had Torx drivers (all male) which are ratchet driven but not "sockets." Anyway, if you lack the Torx socket like I did, a 1/4" socket works well. /Sparticus The following users liked this post: Member Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: New York City Posts: 236 Likes: 0 Received 1 Like on 1 Post '14 E550 Quote: Originally Posted by AMGSpartan Hey Waz, When I replace mine a couple weeks ago I used a 1/4 inch socket (1/4 inch drive with approx 14" extension). The bolt is actually requires a T-8 (Torx 8) SOCKET which I'd never seen until I had removed the bolt. I had Torx drivers (all male) which are ratchet driven but not "sockets." Anyway, if you lack the Torx socket like I did, a 1/4" socket works well. /Sparticus Thanks for the heads up AMGSpartan. I don't have any torx sockets and was actually going to purchase the T-8 but i'll try the 1/4 inch and hopefully it works out. If not im off to the local hardware store lol. Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 655 Likes: 0 Received 1 Like on 1 Post I drive the racism out of BadDebt. ;) Quote: Originally Posted by wazv6 Thanks for the heads up AMGSpartan. I don't have any torx sockets and was actually going to purchase the T-8 but i'll try the 1/4 inch and hopefully it works out. If not im off to the local hardware store lol. its kinda hard to explain but i will try to explain my best, -remove your airbox -To make the DIY easier, i temp-disconnect the fuel line, and removed the driverside valve cover so i can access the plug. Its deep in there so its gonna need lots of patients and small hands. - If you remove the fuel line and the valve cover, this DIY should take you about 1/2 hr.....if you do not remove the items, it will take you a few hrs plus shredded arms..haha
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Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Georgia, USA Posts: 38 Likes: 0 2008 GL320 CDI, 2007 E320, 2005 Passat TDI Quote: Originally Posted by Supafly its kinda hard to explain but i will try to explain my best, -remove your airbox -To make the DIY easier, i temp-disconnect the fuel line, and removed the driverside valve cover so i can access the plug. Its deep in there so its gonna need lots of patients and small hands. - If you remove the fuel line and the valve cover, this DIY should take you about 1/2 hr.....if you do not remove the items, it will take you a few hrs plus shredded arms..haha I DID remove the airbox. I did not disconnect the fuel line. On my car there is a sort of 'boot' over the CPS that made it hard to see. I could feel it...so I pulled the 'boot' thingy up the wire and that made accessing the plug and disconnecting it from the CPS easier. The boot was just some fibrous stuff wrapped around the wire bundle supplying the CPS. You'll see when you start looking around. /Spart Member Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: New York City Posts: 236 Likes: 0 Received 1 Like on 1 Post '14 E550 Thanks for the help Spart and Supafly. I should be receiving the CPS today and start to work on it asap. Member Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: New York City Posts: 236 Likes: 0 Received 1 Like on 1 Post '14 E550 Well I got my CPS sensor and im having a tough time getting the defective CPS out. It's such a pain in the *** to get back there and unscrew the damn bolt. Any ideas on how to make the job easier ?? Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Georgia, USA Posts: 38 Likes: 0 2008 GL320 CDI, 2007 E320, 2005 Passat TDI Quote: Originally Posted by wazv6 Well I got my CPS sensor and im having a tough time getting the defective CPS out. It's such a pain in the *** to get back there and unscrew the damn bolt. Any ideas on how to make the job easier ?? Hey, I feel for you. It took me a coupla tries to get mine out. What I did... -cold engine -removed airbox -padded the top of the engine with a movers pad/blanket -got several 1/4 inch ratchet extensions within reach -climbed on top of engine so I could put both arms down into area where CPS lives. Right & left hands touching CPS...working by 'feel' (the traditional "bimanual technique") -for my engine it took a 2 extensions to give the right length to let me put the ratchet on and have room to swing the handle. One guy posted on another thread he used something like a 14 or 16 inch extension but that would NOT have worked for my situation. I think I cobbled a 4 + 6 inch extensions. Getting the 1/4 inch socket to seat onto the bolt's head is the trick. -having a magnet-on-a-stick and a mirror-on-a-stick help for when you drop things (sockets, extensions, BOLTS - YIKES) or want a better view of the terrain. Since doing my CPS I've seen these cheesy little ratchet handles that are basically a nurled *** with a ratcheting mechanism in the center. They sell them at Tractor supply, Northern Tool, and (gasp) Harbor Freight. Picture a 2.5 inch dia wheel or knob with a 1/4 inch ratchet drive in the center. When I saw that I pictured being able to stick a short (like 2 inch) extension on there and using it to turn the CPS bolt. I bought one and will use it "next time." Anyway this is the gimmicky little tool they sell near the end of the isle or by the check out. I'm starting to think it may be VERY useful when you have small bolts in places with NO ROOM to swing a regular ratchet handle. It may also help to use the right words as you struggle with this &%@#ing job /S Member Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: New York City Posts: 236 Likes: 0 Received 1 Like on 1 Post '14 E550 Quote: Originally Posted by AMGSpartan Hey, I feel for you. It took me a coupla tries to get mine out. What I did... -cold engine -removed airbox -padded the top of the engine with a movers pad/blanket -got several 1/4 inch ratchet extensions within reach -climbed on top of engine so I could put both arms down into area where CPS lives. Right & left hands touching CPS...working by 'feel' (the traditional "bimanual technique") -for my engine it took a 2 extensions to give the right length to let me put the ratchet on and have room to swing the handle. One guy posted on another thread he used something like a 14 or 16 inch extension but that would NOT have worked for my situation. I think I cobbled a 4 + 6 inch extensions. Getting the 1/4 inch socket to seat onto the bolt's head is the trick. -having a magnet-on-a-stick and a mirror-on-a-stick help for when you drop things (sockets, extensions, BOLTS - YIKES) or want a better view of the terrain. Since doing my CPS I've seen these cheesy little ratchet handles that are basically a nurled *** with a ratcheting mechanism in the center. They sell them at Tractor supply, Northern Tool, and (gasp) Harbor Freight. Picture a 2.5 inch dia wheel or knob with a 1/4 inch ratchet drive in the center. When I saw that I pictured being able to stick a short (like 2 inch) extension on there and using it to turn the CPS bolt. I bought one and will use it "next time." Anyway this is the gimmicky little tool they sell near the end of the isle or by the check out. I'm starting to think it may be VERY useful when you have small bolts in places with NO ROOM to swing a regular ratchet handle. It may also help to use the right words as you struggle with this &%@#ing job /S Thanks for the detailed info SPART. Well i got the job done and boy was it a pain in my ***. It was located in such a cramped area. but with the 6' extention and MUCH MUCH patience finally got the CPS out and the new one in. My car is back to normal now. Thanks for all the help guys. Newbie
Join Date: May 2013 Posts: 9 Likes: 0 Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts CLK500 Crankshaft Position Sensor Dealer vs Auto-part purchase Hello All, I have a MB CLK500 and my crankshaft position sensor went bad now I called different dealers and all of them have different prices, the cheapest one I found was $150 dollars. Now I called also a few auto-parts around the area and the have a crankshaft position sensor for a CLK500 for the amount of 65 dollars. now my question is the following: Do I have to buy the crankshaft sensor via my VIN number? I really don't want to pay a lot of money for a part which I can buy cheaper if its the same part at an auto-part. Best, Mel MBworld Guru
Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 10,783 NO LONGER ACTIVE Try parts.com - they might be less than the dealer, but they ship OEM parts from dealers. If nothing else, take the parts.com price to your local dealer's parts counter and ask them to match it. I would not buy a generic Chinese part. Member
Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Sarasota area, FL and Holden Beach, NC Posts: 174 Current: 2007 E350 P1 and P2 Thanks for all the tips here. I'm reading both the sedan and coupe forums for advice. My biggest problem has been finding the damn thing, so I thought I'd repeat something posted on the w203 forum. If you, like I did, take out the MAF sensor and housing, you'll see that there's an electrical connector directly below that housing. That is NOT the CPS. Look lower and to the right and there it is. I've got my old one out but dropped the d*mn screw on the new one, so I'll wait til the am to go find the thing. Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: PA Posts: 689 09 CLK550 Lol, I hate dropping screws. Even worse is when they don't fall out the bottom. This tool has been an awesome addition http://www.harborfreight.com/15-lb-c...ool-95933.html I am still missing a T30 torx bit somewhere in the engine bay. Never found it. The following users liked this post: Member
Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Sarasota area, FL and Holden Beach, NC Posts: 174 Current: 2007 E350 P1 and P2 Quote: Originally Posted by ambit I found it after about two hours of looking. It had ricocheted behind the heat shield alongside the left front wheel, and somehow managed to be WAY up high (from my perspective under the car). I was terrified that it had somehow dropped into the hole for the CPS, so it was quite a relief to find it. Member
Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Sarasota area, FL and Holden Beach, NC Posts: 174 Current: 2007 E350 P1 and P2 Also, by the way, I had read somewhere a suggestion to put in the CPS and screw together (at the same time). I was trying that method, which I decided was impossible. What ultimately DID work was to tape the screw head to the torx bit. I also ended up taping all of the extensions/universal joint together as well, because they kept coming apart while I was fishing the contraption into position.
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Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 10,783 NO LONGER ACTIVE I use Scotch two-sided tape to hold screws onto driver bits. I've even heard of others usin a drop of Super Glue. Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Seattle Posts: 38 Likes: 0 Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts 2005 CLK 320 Kudo to those that did this in 30 mins, it took me hours. In the end I had to remove the valve cover box to get access. Surprisingly I had no issues with putting it back in. This is a real pain in the *** job. Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: On the roam Posts: 14 Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts 2011 C300 4matic Stuck removing crank position sensor 2011 C300 4matic I read all the DIY's, and
tried to remove the crank position sensor. The hoses are a little different on my 2011 C300 4matic as compared to pictures. The driver side valve cover looks much longer on my engine perhaps because of the mfg date 02/11 or that its a Canadian car? MBworld Guru
Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 10,783 NO LONGER ACTIVE Quote: Originally Posted by gardenmaster I read all the DIY's, and tried to remove the crank position sensor. The hoses are a little different on my 2011 C300 4matic as compared to pictures. The driver side valve cover looks much longer on my engine perhaps because of the mfg date 02/11 or that its a Canadian car? You're in the wrong forum. You have a W204. But you have an M272 engine and the CPS is about the same job on it as what is being discussed. However, I would NOT remove the valve cover on your engine! It's a much more involved job on the M272 engine. Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: On the roam Posts: 14 Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts 2011 C300 4matic Rudeney. Agreed, this thread was the closest match to my nightmare problem removing the crank position sensor on the W204, after days of searching globally. MBworld Guru
Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 10,783 NO LONGER ACTIVE Remove the engine cover and MAF sensor for netter access to the CPS. Honestly, replacing it is almost more by feel than sight. Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: On the roam Posts: 14 Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts 2011 C300 4matic Rodney: Yes the MAF and right angle boot and connected hoses were already removed. The problem I see (and feel) is the crankshaft position sensor appears to be fastened with a torx screw not a torx bolt. i.e. the materials I read said I would need an E8 torx (female) socket, and I am surprised now I need a torx bit. It is
opposite. MBworld Guru
Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 10,783 NO LONGER ACTIVE Just to make sure you are looking at the correct part:
What are the symptoms of a faulty crankshaft position sensor?Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Crankshaft Position Sensor. Issues Starting the Vehicle.. Intermittent Stalling.. Check Engine Light Comes On.. Uneven Acceleration.. Engine Misfires or Vibrates.. Rough Idle and/or Vibrating Engine.. Reduced Gas Mileage.. What is a CPS on a Mercedes Benz?The crankshaft position sensor in your Mercedes-Benz is also known as the engine speed sensor. This sensor is part of your vehicle's fuel injection and ignition system. Its job is to measure the engine's RPM as well as the engine's crankshaft position. If this part fails, your car will not start, leaving you stranded.
Where is my crank position sensor located?The Crank position sensor is usually mounted in the crankcase over the toothed wheel on the crankshaft. The Camshaft position sensor is usually mounted in line with the toothed wheel on the end of the camshaft. It is usually hidden under the timing chain cover on the front of the engine.
Can I change my crankshaft position sensor myself?While the crankshaft position sensor is a pretty sophisticated piece of equipment, and you might be intimidated by the idea of replacing it yourself, you probably shouldn't be. With a good set of instructions, the right tools, and some effort, you can replace your crankshaft sensor yourself.
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